A Well-Travelled Menu

Last April 15th, snow crabs from Îles-de-la-Madeleine, îles Mingan and Havre Saint-Pierre were stowed, claws retracted, aboard an early flight to Dorval airport. The eagerly awaited crustaceans were then rushed to Toqué!'s kitchens where Normand flavoured the meat with Kaffir limes and served it with a tender salad dressed with basil oil. Never has crab meat been so light...so delicate.

Many delicacies arrive from afar: quails from Montmagny, smoked salmon from Charlevoix, and crayfish from the banks of lac Saint-Pierre. In consideration for their special status, Florida shrimp, Yaquina oysters, lobsters and scallops arrive by air. Bus is the preferred method of transportation for the wild herbs collected by François Brouillard. For their part, radish, artichokes, spruce sprouts and other organic vegetables travel from Cookstown, Ontario to Montreal by priority post -- of course!

The fashion for wild herbs

Question: When was the last time you enjoyed glasswort, wild ginger, winter-cress, elderberry, live-for-ever, daylily buds, or milkweed?

Answer: Ever since Toqué! began garnishing its dishes with these rare plants and herbs.

Question: When did Normand develop a passion for Quebec's forgotten herbs and vegetables?

Answer: Since... forever, although his fascination turned to obsession in the early 1990s. One spring day, while visiting Montreal's Jean-Talon market, he came upon an eccentric merchant who regaled him with descriptions of rare herbs and vegetables and their cooking and preparation methods. The man's name was François Brouillard, although Normand didn't know it at the time.

"So, where are you from?," asked Normand.

"Saint-Roch de l'Achigan," replied Brouillard, while handing change to a client who was leaving with very green and very tender fiddleheads.

"No. I meant what planet are you from?"

Thus began an unconventional but fruitful relationship between an artisanal forager and Toqué!'s future chef-owner. Normand's passion for these little known plants led him to buy and transport Brouillard's unique products that have since become legendary. From humble artisan to sought-after entrepreneur, Brouillard's work methods are now taught at La Ferme des Jardins Sauvages. Numerous cooking teachers, students, cooks, chefs and restaurateurs have been educated at his seven-acre garden where he grows herbs and vegetables in the clearing and wild products in the woods. On other fronts - the Ottawa Valley, the Laurentians, the Lower Saint-Lawrence and the North Coast - he trains herb growers, many of whom specialize in the search for edible sea plants. Brouillard is attributed with popularising glasswort, sea purslane and sea sandwort while ensuring environmentally friendly harvesting techniques. Nomadic, with his eyes always focused on the ground whose bounty he so treasures, François Brouillard may be of the earth, but as he says: "Normand got me out of the woods!"

In early April, Christine and Normand travelled to Languedoc, France to take part in the 12th annual Toques et Clochers. Held from April 5-8, the event attracted some 40 wine makers from the Sieur d'Arques region, and was officiated by Antoine Westermann, chef-owner of the Buereheisel restaurant in Strasbourg. Primarily an auction for Limouxin wines, the popular event also featured a cultural dimension: the restoration of local church bells. At the request of Sieur d'Arques wine makers, the owners of Toqué! were on hand to observe the proceedings since a similar event will take place in Montreal with Normand officiating as President. Toques et Clochers will help restore the church bell at l'Enfant-Jésus on Saint-Dominique Street on October 28th. The Montreal activities will include a public auction of chardonnay wines from Limoux available locally for the first time.

For more information, visit vignerons du Sieur d'Arques website

Sandrine's recipe for a good night's sleep

Sandrine was a fairy who lived in an enchanted garden, slept peacefully during the night, and dreamed beautiful dreams. In one such dream, humankind's problems with insomnia and indigestion were conquered thanks to a recipe she concocted with a little hot water and a pinch of perlimpinpin powder. The next morning, Sandrine entered her Lakefield gardens and greenhouses to describe the dream to her friends. When she asked Hyssop, Lavender, Sweet weed, Linden and Rosemary how she could turn the dream into reality, they consulted Wood nettle and Marigold, who finally came up with the answer: she must take her magic pouch and head to Montreal. Marigold remembered a certain Christine Lamarche, who had considered life as an herb gardener before becoming a restaurateur. "When the snow melts," said Marigold, "take your magic pouch and fly to the Big Island. Once at Toqué!, we'll do the rest." And so it was that the fairy came to present her country fresh and aromatic treasures in Montreal. And ever since that Spring of 2001, the herbal teas lovingly grown and bagged by Sandrine, are offered at the end of every Toqué! meal.

Free Trade Among Chefs

Montreal is a city where friendships blossom even in wintertime. As part of the Montreal High Lights Festival, two American chefs graced Toqué!'s kitchens, while visiting chefs Laurent Petit, Tadashi Ono and David Zuddas took time out to drop by and enjoy Normand's inimitable cuisine.

In 2000, Montreal went wild for Charlie Trotter, who took over Normand's kitchens, for a night as part of the first annual Montreal High Lights Festival. So it came as no surprise that when Trotter returned to the gastronomic festival, this time as Honorary President, the famous Chicago chef made an encore appearance at Toqué! to concoct another feast. On February 11th, 2001, Trotter's eleven-course meal began with a stunning trio of foie gras: sautéed, terrine, and, in a sublime and unconventional twist, "en crème glacée" - as ice cream!

Charlie Trotter's website
February 11, 2001 menu with pictures

Nine days later, also as part of the festival, chef Kenneth Oringer from CLIO, the pride of Boston's Eliot Hotel, took over Toqué!'s kitchens. Oringer surprised many guests with a martini made with... tomato water! In addition to this daring cocktail came ten courses, each more delicious than the last. Among the highlights: tripe consommé, giant clams with candied lemon, cockscomb pot pie with heirloom vegetables, and an unforgettable dessert of caramelized goat's milk, crunchy Granny Smith apples and fleur de sel.

Clio's website
February 20, 2001 menu with pictures
Pictures of the events

Among friends

On April 26 Charlie Trotter hosted a sumptuous luncheon for some thirty Chicago chefs and two new international friends: Normand Laprise and Fergus Henderson, whose London, England eatery, St. John, had just been named restaurant of the year by Moët & Chandon. The menu was conceived by one of the world's most reputed chefs: Tetsuya Wakuda, chef-owner of TETSUYA's in Sydney, Australia.

To celebrate the 14th anniversary of his restaurant, Trotter will share his kitchen with Normand for one night only, on August 19th. What an honour ! On June 12th, the friendship was also cemented between Normand and Ken Oringer. To commemorate CLIO's 4th birthday, Ken entrusted his kitchen to Normand and Susur Lee, formerly of Toronto's Lotus and current owner of Susur.

Souvenirs

Are you an admirer of Toqué!'s exotic Asian serving plates? Designed by Kate Baker, they're available to anyone who would like to take home an elegant memento of their favourite restaurant. Toqué! caps and T-shirt are also still available.