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Madame
Duquet's Organic Vegetables
One
of Toqué!'s golden rules is that products used in the
kitchen must meet the highest standards of freshness, flavour
and quality. Last season, Normand discovered the baby vegetables
of Madame Duquet, a faithful customer who recently traded
a city career for country living. Her small farm, located
in the shadow of Mount Sutton, is run with old-fashioned intuition
and patience. One taste of her aromatic herbs and vegetables,
such as Jerusalem artichokes and baby carrots, and Normand
was hooked. Picked daily and handled with care, the pesticide-free
wild garlic, spinach, leeks, Charlotte potatoes, and turnips
meet organic farming standards. In 2003, Madame Duquet will
turn her talents to field berries and other wild plants. Don't
be surprised if next spring Toqué!'s menu features
young dandelion greens and other such long-forgotten delicacies.
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Press
Cuttings
In an interview in La Presse by journalist
Judith Lachapelle, Normand explained why veal gets top billing
at Toqué!. The veal produced by breeder Andrew Stairs
is "tastier than milk-fed", because the calves are
weaned on their mothers' milk before being set loose in the
meadow to graze on clover. The October edition of the prestigious
and über-trendy magazine Wallpaper quoted Lesley Chesterman,
restaurant critic for The Montreal Gazette, as saying that
Normand paved the way for a generation of chefs, who use local
ingredients to craft a "distinctive" and "imaginative"
Quebec cuisine. In September, seduced by the subtle flavour
of a Malpèque oyster in raspberry vinegar, Margot Pfeiff
in The Los Angeles Times claimed that after having dined at
Toqué! frequently, it is now her favourite Montreal
restaurant. Since then, dozens of Californians have introduced
themselves to Christine, shown her the article, and asked
to be seduced in turn. The magazine Taste hailed Normand as
"the genius behind Toqué! ... the chef who raised
Quebec homegrown cuisine to the heights of fine dining."
In the August issue of Actualité, Yannick Villedieu
wrote about "chefs who reinvent Quebec cuisine in tandem
with local producers," and cited Normand as a driving
force behind the revolution. The Royal named Toqué!
one of the two best Montreal restaurants for business meetings.
Very "who's who," the magazine went on to list celebrity
patrons, including David Bowie, Steven Spielberg, Patrick
Bruel, and Prince Edward. BMW Magazine featured a long interview
in which Normand expressed his commitment to the bold, beautiful
and multiethnic Montreal he calls home. Lastly, the magazine
The Robb Report praised Normand's spirit of adventure, most
apparent in the five-course mystery menu where, on the inspiration
of the moment, the dishes change subtly from hour to hour.
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The
Women In His life
Coming
this winter
Denise Bombardier wanted to know all about
the women in Normand's life. In "Parlez-moi des femmes;
parlez-moi des hommes," he is reticent, but freely pays
tribute to the women who have raised, protected, supported
and loved him.
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Apple
At Its Best
Neige,
the ice cider produced by La Face Cachée De La Pomme,
has found a spot in Toqué!'s wine cellar. Chosen as
a "Découverte" at Sélections Mondiales,
Neige was also a gold medalist at Quebec's Coupe des Nations.
To brighten up your dessert course, Toqué! offers this
bittersweet, amber-coloured ice cider by the glass.
www.cidredeglace.com
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Calgary
Dining
In
mid-October, Normand was invited by Michael Noble, chef of
the Calgary restaurant CATCH, to take part in a dinner to
raise funds for multiple sclerosis research.
Normand arrived with a large variety of Quebec's top products
including scallops, venison, heirloom fruits, flowers and
vegetables. To begin the six-course meal, Normand served Princess
scallops with vodka, cranberry and preserved lemon. The main
course featured grilled loin of Boileau venison, pan juices
deglazed with red blackberry vinegar, rooted chervil and rosehip
purée, pan-fried matsutake mushrooms, and a sprinkling
of daisies. Besides Normand and Michael Noble, four other
high-profile chefs helped make the event a success: David
Hawksworth of Ouest in Vancouver, Thomas Haas of Sen5es in
Vancouver; Anthony Walsh of Canoe in Toronto, and The Inn
Chef, Michael Smith.
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Our
Chef In Bermuda
Take
a look at the following list and imagine Normand and chef
de partie Karine Larouche compiling this inventory before
heading for Bermuda to host two dinners last November 15th
and 16th as the guest of José Froncioni of the Chaîne
des Rôtisseurs, and Serge Botelli of the restaurant
La Coquille. From
one tip of the triangle to the other, they're still talking
about the five sensational dishes whose subtle simplicity
stunned the dining crowd of the local Chaîne des Rôtisseurs.
First sensation: Princess scallops marinated in tarragon oil,
cranberry water, and Cortland apple mousse. Second sensation:
Tuna sashimi, salad of preserved lemons, vodka-marinated shallots,
pepper compote with micro-kale, chioggia beet purée,
yellow beets with rosemary, topped with cauliflower and caramelized
beet and truffle oil emulsion. Third sensation: Saddle of
grilled young Boileau venison with broken béarnaise,
shiitake-flavoured jus, pan-fried Chinese artichokes, chervil
root purée, and baby pak-choy. Fourth sensation: Pineapple
carpaccio with basil and strawberry sorbet. Fifth sensation:
Red raspberry dacquoise, thyme-flavoured Chantilly cream,
Quebec black raspberry sorbet, and rosehip purée. Normand's
goal was to feature gastronomically prepared Quebec products
so
mission accomplished!
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La
Tablée des chefs
If there's
enough for two, there's enough for three, ten, twenty, a hundred
or more. That's the spirit behind La Tablée des Chefs,
whose first spokesperson is Normand Laprise. Many hotels,
restaurants and bakeries send their leftovers to community
organizations each night. So, in conjunction with Moisson
Montréal, La Tablée des Chefs set out to solicit
the participation of every restaurant and hotel in Montreal.
The Société des Chefs Cuisiniers et Patissiers
du Québec helped launch the project by orchestrating
a gourmet dinner on November 1, 2002. The setting? Moisson
Montréal's Zen-like concrete warehouse filled with
industrial shelving, huge refrigerators, and shipping crates.
Needless to say, the food was exquisitely and deliciously
simple.
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Monday, September 16, 2002. In the early
hours of this sunny day, laughter is heard, bringing to
life the dull alley off St-Denis Street. There are whispers.
Plates are passed from one car to the other. At noon, around
the picnic table set in front of Dietrich-Jooss vineyard,
the Toqué team will enjoy a leisurely lunch of : tomatoes
vinaigrette, pasta salad, potato and beet salads; terrines
and pâtés; blueberry and apple pies.
Well before 8:00 am, when the
alley will become silent again, the happy group is on its
way towards Iberville and the famous vineyard created in
1986. They are assigned the task of picking Maréchal Foch
grapes, ripe and bursting with flavour. However, it is "hands
off" the other hybrid varieties of the vineyard: Cayuga
White, Chancellor, De Chaunac, Geisenheim, Seyval and Vidal.
These are reserved for more experienced hands!
The Toqué team and a few friends,
among them the indispensable monsieur Daignault, began to
work. Picking and eating grapes, standing, bending or crouching
down, they harvested seven rows of vines, filled dozens
of baskets and emptied their contents into containers. After
all that exercice, the Warm molten Manjari chocolate cake,
Dietrich Jooss red wine reduction with spices and berries
will taste even better .
At the end of the day, tired
but happy and satisfied with the work done, they sat down,
tasted the Dietrich-Jooss wines and made a few toasts. Good
health to wine growers! Good health to Normand and Christine!
Long life to the two weekly days off that the Toqué will
enjoy from now on!
The next planned outing is
in November: to pick japanese artichokes at monsieur Daignault's
farm.
Christine's
photo story >>>
www.dietrichjooss.com
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Normand is concentrating. Invisible, Christine
is taking his picture for posterity.

Maréchal Foch,
in official vineyard dress.
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